Start by marking the mortise positions on the legs. Centre the brace mortises across the width of the legs and offset the skirts 1/4"on the outside faces. Drill a series of 1/2"-dia. overlapping holes to form the mortise openings. Set the drill press depth gauge just shy of the bottom and finish drilling from the other side to prevent tearout. Clean up the mortise openings with a chisel.
Now prepare the matching tenons. Make the skirt tenons 1/16" shorter than the mortise depth so the shoulders completely contact the legs. The brace tenons should be 1/16" longer than the thickness of the legs and extend slightly proud of the surface. Sand flush after the joints are assembled and wedged. I cut the tenons with a tablesaw, starting with four cuts to define the shoulders. Continue by sawing the waste from the tenon cheeks, leaving them slightly thicker than needed. Finish up by paring material from the cheeks with a sharp chisel to create a snug fit within each mortise. If you make the shoulder cuts 1/32" deeper than required, it will be easier to remove material from the corners when you chisel.
Complete the tenons by cutting notches for the hardwood wedges. Drill a 1/8" hole at the end of each notch so the wood doesn't split when the wedges are taped into place. Dry fit the base together and if everything looks good dismantle, glue the joints and reassemble with clamps. Before setting aside to dry, glue the wedges in place and check to make sure everything's square. Once the glue dries, sand the ends of the brace tenons flush with the legs.
Next come the nine shelf slats for the lower shelf and the two rack slats. Trim the ends 45°, then cut 3/4"-deep notches to fit over the braces. The wine rack slats should be easy to remove so make these notches 1/16" wider than the others. Install the shelf slats with glue and #8 x 1 1/4" screws. Counter-bore into 3/8"-dia. holes for tapered plugs.
Attach the top with metal clips fit into slots cut in the skirt sides using a biscuit joiner. The slots allow the top to move freely as it expands and contracts, while the metal clips hold it firm.
Top drawer
Don't rely on the drawer dimensions given in the plans-for a precise fit, measure the opening and allow for a 1/16" clearance on each side and 1/4" recess at the front.
Join the sides to the drawer face with half-blind dovetails and the back corners with rabbets. Any strong joint should work so long as the dimensions are correct. Prepare the corner joints, then cut 1/4" grooves into the sides and front for the plywood bottom panel. You may want to rout the recess before assembling the drawer, in case of error.
Assemble the drawer with glue and clamps. Cut the bottom to size and slide into place from the back. Tap in a few finishing nails to connect the back edge to the box.
The drawer glides along a pair of L-shaped aluminum tracks screwed to the wooden drawer runner cleats. These cleats shim the aluminum flush with the inside face of the legs. Attach the runners to the spacers with #8 x 3/4" screws. Counterbore slightly below the surface.
2 Comments
Interesting Article on Chopping Block constructing. I need to know what to do to maintain the surface of the block. I tthought it was vegatable oil too seal it but resident kitchen expert questions it. Other thought was linseed oil. Appreciate your answer. Cheers WRW
Mineral oil available at any drugstore for cheap is the best to use. It is made for internal consumption, therefore, it is food safe, and, it forms the basis for all the EXPENSIVE furniture oils.