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| 1. Begin by removing the bottom track of the old door. If the screws are old and worn, don't use a drill—the old screw heads will strip easily, making removal unnecessarily difficult. | 2. Slide the door plates over the old passage holes, predrill the screw holes with a 1/8" wood drill bit, then screw the plates to the door. Clear the passages with a 2 1/8" bimetal hole saw. | 3. Measure the distance between the predrilled mounting holes in the upper track and the track’s valance panel. Knowing this distance will help you set the track flush with the walls. |
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| 4. Align the front of the upper track’s valance panel flush with the wall. We had to mark the mounting holes 1 3/4" (the depth of the valance) from the outside corners of the closet. | 5. To keep the track straight across the width of the opening, measure the distance from the back wall of the closet and mark this point on the ceiling across the opening. | 6. Locate the closet header across the width of the opening using an electronic stud finder. If you can’t locate a wood header, use plugs designed for anchoring into hollow walls. |
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| 7. To fasten the upper track, first mark then predrill holes into the closet frame concealed underneath the ceiling’s drywall (inset). Now fasten the track with two-inch screws. | 8. Align the lower track to run flush with the walls at either end of the closet opening, then fasten the track with screws driven through predrilled holes and into the flooring. | 9. Depending on the size of the doors, you may need help hanging them. Once the upper wheels are set into the track, clip the bottom of the door into the lower track. |
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