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| 1. Determine the overall height you’d like. Panels come 32" high. Reduce the height by cutting the panel down. Or, raise it, covering the space at the bottom with a wider baseboard. | 2. Once the overall height is determined, mark a level line around the perimeter of the room at the desired panel height. Be sure to allow an extra 1/2" for uneven floors. | 3. Locate and mark studs using a stud finder. Locate the center of the stud and mark the location above the level line so it’s still visible when you fasten the panel in place. |
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| 4. Use a level to check the walls for plumb when the wainscoting travels around a corner. Ensure a gap-free fit by mitreing or beveling the panels to compensate for the out-of-plum wall. | 5. Out-of-plumb corners will require the panel joints to be mitred. Shimming the panel from behind will also help compensate for the out-of-plumb and bring the panels closer together. | 6. Fasten corner joints with counter-sunk screws or nails, catching the stud where possible. Fill any small, remaining gaps with a thin bead of paintable latex caulking. |
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| 7. Carefully measure and make cutouts for electrical outlets. The electrical box may have to move to a flat area of the panel. The outlet cannot be in a recessed area. | 8. Join one panel to the next by applying glue and inserting biscuits in the pre-cut slots. Be sure the top edge of each panel is perfectly aligned with the top edge of each panel next to it. | 9. Flush the joints using a putty knife and filler and then sand to ensure joints are not visible when painted. Mouldings are a question of personal taste. We used a 1" paint-grade pine cap. |
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