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by
Rick Campbell
photos by Roger Yip |
IT WAS A CLOSET ... NOW IT'S AN OFFICE |
| Here's
a plan to truly maximize household space |
When I was growing up, the kitchen table was our home office—the
place where kids gathered at the end of the day to do their
homework and where our parents sorted out the monthly household
bills. Today, computers are used more and more to help us accomplish
these tasks, creating the need for a dedicated home-office space
to accommodate equipment, supplies and access to the Internet.
When space is in short supply, finding a suitable location to
set up shop can be a challenge.
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| BEFORE
& AFTER: the modular units built into an unused
closet added a popular new room to Rick Campbell's
house |
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We solved this problem in our home by constructing a built-in
office, tailored to fit in the opening of a closet and custom-designed
from the ground up to meet our specific requirements. The entire
renovation was less expensive than a room full of traditional
office furniture, and the simple, modular approach made the
office easier to build than typical furniture projects.
Getting
Started
There is no materials list for this project because every installation
is different. The dimensions of the available space, as well
as your personal requirements and budget, will determine the
final design.
I got started by removing the
closet doors, interior shelving and the trim that was in the
way so I could inspect the space and take accurate measurements.
Then I prepared detailed plans that included a 1/2" gap
on the top and sides to compensate for sloping floors and out-of-plumb
walls. The gap was covered with trim after the unit was installed.
I was also careful to leave a two-inch space at the back for
computer cables and air circulation to keep sensitive electronics
cool. It’s best to leave as much space here as you can.
Base Cabinets
All of the cabinets are made from 3/4" melamine panels
screwed together using simple butt joints. Before assembly,
cover the exposed panel edges with adhesive-backed melamine
trim using a standard household iron. After the office insert
is installed, cover any screw heads with plastic caps to make
them less visible.
I started construction at the
bottom by cutting out panels to make the two identical base
units that support the desktop. Each base unit consists of a
pair of side panels, notched at the bottom to receive a solid
birch kickplate, a base panel installed directly above the kickplate
and cross braces connecting the sides at the top. Use two braces
at the front, separated by a narrow gap to accept a pullout
work surface. Secure four rails inside the cabinet to form channels
to support the sliding panel. A stop block attached to the top
prevents the work surface from being brought out too far. Cover
the cabinet backs with hardboard panels cut to fit flush and
nail in place. Be sure to leave a two-inch opening for ventilation
and the passage of cables directly behind any electronic components.
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| Faux
cabinet doors actually have a bank of drawers inside,
used for CD storage and a custom-seized hard-drive
shelf. You'll leave ventilation room behind the
shelf so the computer can cool |
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Customize
the interior of the cabinets to suit your specific storage requirements.
This may include drawers, adjustable shelving or designated
areas for equipment. In one base cabinet I installed a vertical
partition to separate the computer hard drive from a unique
two-level drawer arrangement used to store CDs and other odds
and ends. Notch the partition to fit around the cross braces
at the top and meet the base panel with a simple butt joint
at the bottom. Drive screws through the braces and the underside
of the base panel to hold the partition in place.
The drawer assembly consists of
shallow upper and lower trays joined to a melamine panel at
the back and a painted medium-density fibreboard (MDF) drawer
face at the front. The drawer face covers the entire width of
the base unit and will look like a pair of cabinet doors. To
create the simulated raised panel effect, I secured a 1/4"
plywood template to the drawer face with double-sided tape and
followed around the edge with a handheld router equipped with
a guide collar and a bead-and-cove profile bit. I also made
a pass down the centre of the “door” using a curved
radius V-groove bit and a straight edge to serve as a guide.
The melamine and MDF makes the
drawer assembly heavy, so don’t skimp on the hardware.
I used a pair of heavy-duty full-extension drawer slides attached
to the bottom tray to carry the weight and make it easy to get
to items in the back. The other base cabinet has a similar two-level
storage unit, but this one fills the entire cavity. I put the
printer on top and paper storage underneath.
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| Part
1 | Part 2 |
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