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1. The old fireplace
was not square to the wall, but a new surround is the
chance to fix it. First mark the layout for the sole
plates. |
2. Metal studs are
a good non-combustible choice to frame the surround.
Metal-stud framing screws look like drywall screws but
have a much finer thread. |
3. Use a plumb bob
to mark the location of the top plates on the ceiling.
Taking care at this early stage is key because errors
will only be compounded as the walls are built. |
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4. The surround
doesn’t support any weight but its own (standard
metal studs can’t be used in a load-bearing wall),
so we can safely screw the lightweight top plates right
through the drywall ceiling. |
5. Filling in the
rest of the studs is quick work. The fireplace opening
is framed like a door or a window. For a header, cut
through the flanges on a metal base plate, bend it back,
and attach to a vertical stud. Double up studs on the
sides of the opening and at any corners. |
6,7. After cutting
through the flanges, they were bent down flat. The new
fireplace insert will sit directly on top of this flattened
piece. |
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8. Fire-resistant
drywall goes across the front of the new surround, where
it’s closest to the heat of the fireplace insert.
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9. Once you’ve
attached the rest of the drywall (using screws designed
for metal studs), the last do-it-yourself step is taping
and mudding the drywall. Now it’s time to turn
the job over to the experts. |
10. For this installation,
a colinear direct vent system is best. Colinear means
two vent pipes work side by side—one for air in,
one for exhaust. Coaxial direct venting has a smaller
pipe inside a larger one. |
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11. Colinear vent
pipes are often easier to fit down a chimney. Another
common venting route—a horizontal pipe from the
insert straight out the exterior wall—wouldn’t
have met code here because the home’s driveway
runs along this wall. That’s the knowledge an
experienced installer can provide. |
12. Down in the
depths of the basement, the new gas line is tied into
existing lines, and has a separate shut-off valve. This
connection must be made by a licensed gas fitter. |
13. With the vent
pipes snaked down the chimney and the gas line fed up
from the basement, the fireplace insert is connected
and positioned in the firebox. The original brick surround
would have called for a standard masonry insert, but
drywall requires a zero-clearance model, which is safe
to install closer to combustibles. We chose the President
model from Valor Gas Fireplaces. |
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14. The gas line
feeds into the valve control unit. This is where you
can manually adjust the flame height if you misplace
the remote. |
15. Some assembly
required. The insert comes as a single factory-built
unit, but the brick plates, the imitation logs and the
metal heat shield that helps direct warm air into the
room need to be attached. |
16. Our expert installer,
Wes Willard, attaches the ceramic glass door. Gas fireplace
inserts have a pressure-release safety feature. If there’s
a buildup of gas when lit, the spring-mounted door will
pop out an inch or two to safely release the pressure
to prevent a dangerous explosion. |
PROJECTS
