There are some additional basic rules to help prevent kickback on a tablesaw:
1. Never attempt to cut a piece of wood that is wider than it is long when using the fence (e.g., cutting a 10"-long piece of 1x4 into two 5" lengths). The wood will wedge between the fence and blade, causing the cut piece to become a projectile.
2. When making a cut, push only on the supported (with mitre gauge or fence) side of the stock, never on the offcut side. If you push on the offcut side of your material, it will cause the kerf to close and pinch the blade. Push your stock past the blade and let the offcut stop on its own.
4. Use pushsticks that give you a solid hold on the board. A loose hold on the stock being fed, due to a worn- out pushstick, can quickly result in an unintended javelin throw from your tablesaw.
5. A final safety note: there is no way to guarantee that kickback will never occur. Use of the factory anti-kickback features, proper technique and a general awareness of what’s going on with your saw will greatly reduce the chances of it occurring, but nothing is foolproof.
Proper tablesaw cutting technique:
The best way to make sure you don’t get hurt if kickback does occur is to train yourself never to stand in-line with the stock you are cutting; rather, stand off to the side while you make your cut. It feels a little strange at first, but once you get into the habit, it will become second nature.
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1 Comment
I disagree with the last satment, as to personal allingment. The best way to not incur kick back is to follow the preceding comments. Also, you should allways be in control, don't stand aside, you have more control if you are not bending or leaning over. These things can get you in trouble. Balance is very inportant in never getting in trouble. I have been in the cabinetmaking trade for 21 years, trained many, followed these rules, safe so far;-)